Відео

I've watched many videos on insulating the floor and many UA-camrs end up doing what you do: insulating from underneath. Why not put the wire mesh down when the floor joists are being installed and then fill the spaces between the joists before putting on the subfloor material? In other words, why does everyone work from underneath when they could drop the insulation down? Also, is there some kind of breathable material that can be put behind the screen to prevent the incursion of insects into the insulation?

The video I watched on building a shower pan on the MR Post Frame | Marshall Remodel channel was useful. It's titled "Self Build Home | Custom Tile Shower Pt 1 | Mad County Build". Around the 14 minute mark He shows using angled strips of 1/2" plywood to achieve the slope.

Definitely would have done foam pan or full fiberglass enclosure. Not worth the hassle of tile and mortar for a cabin 😊

Creosote and tar paper might have been a better choice for the post connection. Diagonal sway braces are not relevant for sub 4 feet posts. But stellar work overall!

That drill saw blade looked really dangerous. Was it really supposed to go on the end of a drill? It does say "internal PVC cutter" but really seems like a solution looking for a problem. There are so many better ways of getting a clean cut of a PVC pipe that doesn't involve harming yourself with an uncontrollable tool. On the pre-slope things, you found the construction version of the 5-pack hot dogs, 6-pack hot dog buns (or whatever mismatched multiples, because it's a globally universal scam).

Theres a brown sand mix from quick crete that would have worked much better it's more of a sand and polymer type of thing

My next project, perfect timing. Thank you for sharing!

I've been installing them for over 20 years. I never mount them on top of the sub floor I've always cut a beveled hole that allows the bottom piece to be flush with the sub-floor so it's not raised. I also do not screw them down. I use and adhesive under them and then build a bridge with 2x4 over it and then screw the drain up until it's tight. Once the adhesive sets up I remove it or allow the tile guy/gal to remove it. This prevents possible tears on the old school rubber membranes by the screws.

I'm so glad to see another video.

Finally ! Wooden support legs separated/elevated from the 'rot zone' by concrete and galvanised steel. Excellent. Wood is highly dependent on type, maturity, water content, grain direction/joint geometry, loading, and anti-corrosion/erosion treatment. It is easy to get it wrong, and build something with either a severely limited lifespan, unacceptable flexing/noise transmission, or inbuilt heavy maintenance needs. Good to see somebody who understands this. The old wood buildings of Scandinavia, Europe and America (immigrant knowledge), were developed over centuries of lessons learned from errors, and were never built to accommodate modern demands for energy conservation and luxury.

I've never seen nor have I used the paint on green treat on cut ends, primarily because you should stain the thing in a year or less having let it weather a bit. The 16"+ straps going up the side of the posts, never seen that done, usually done in hurricane zones securing plates to studs. Base plates are sufficient, that is stupid. I've seen your licensed engineers comments as well. Not sure the reason for the aluminum sheet under the post bases. To shed water off the top of concrete, as concrete isn't waterproof but absorbs water, trying to keep water infiltration between the concrete & the anchor bolt, freeze/thaw? I've never seen that happen, when such precautions were not taken. You set them in concrete & didn't drill them in. Spray them with concrete sealer & goob some Morflex around it if you like but that... Your posts are 6x6". Don't know how deep you went with your footings, or if you pancaked out the concrete under the sonotube in an oversized area in bottom of the footing hole, but your sonotubes look like 10" max which is narrow considering all the other overkill & I'm all for extra engineering. 12" min but more like 16" would be better if not required. Hyper overkill in areas combined with what looks like close to minimum if not below minimum is odd. Notching 6x6's leaving about an inch, for a triple rim joist?? Code doesn't even allow notching 4x4's for deck railing, so what do you think that 1" is going to hold? Double rim joist. What are your spans? 12' max, but they look closer to 8-10' Those look like 2x12's? All your seems aligned. BAD!! If 8-10' span have a 16'-20' span three posts. Stager seams. Notch for only 2 layer rim joist. I've even notched about a 1/2" shallow, so outside of rim is 1/2" proud of posts. Power lag your double rim joist together. I stopped watch there. Did you caulk all your seams after that as well with Through the roof or Big Stretch?

So airtight has to have an oxygen tank on standby 😂

Rookie my ass

You were smart to have the place inspected (even if you had no choice). In some jurisdictions there is a choice and you can build without inspection and some UA-camrs building homes as DIY rookies have done this, thinking they are as competent as licensed plumbers. In fact, I've seen the same mistake you've made. The benefit you have is that you caught a mistake and fixed it when it costs relatively little to fix. Moreover, you can say when the property is completed and you want to sell that it is very well built and passed all inspections. That alone can bring you tens of thousands of dollars more. Some properties that have plumbing or electrical problems to fix underneath concrete floors have to be discounted by over $100k because these things must be revealed during the sale and the buyer assumes that they need to be torn up and fixed.

😂 ID and OD are usually different 😂 It happens to the best of us😅

Smoke test used for vacuum leaks works as well

No it's not overkill. This is a place that can withstand F5 tornadoes, Cat 5 hurricanes and a 10.9 earthquake...all at the same time!!! When the sun goes supernova, this place will still be standing! Wow! Very impressive!

That's no "rookie". Idiots.

I hate these videos that make me realise how utterly useless I am .

Amazing chud walk recreation in thumbnail

Yes it appears to be way overbuilt. He's not lacking on money apparently :)

Hello. Nice build. Where does the insulation for the floor go? And is there some way to prevent insects and rodents from occupying the space under the floor (e.g. some screen or net). TIA.

What is the coil stock you used to bend the cap over your concrete piers? Looks like aluminum? Hopefully it's just galvanized steel, or you will have problems with dis-similar metals touching in a wet environment.

You can tell he is an amateur. Took him ten minutes to build it!

In regards to your "over built" walls, some could argue that a lot of squirrels love to chew that wood. When I was in junior high (late 1970"s), I saw a bumper sticker on a car that read: "Save a tree, eat a beaver". So, that being said, your walls are fine. Cheers!

A little tip. Anything wider than a 2x6, never trust the factory end to be square. For along the band board particularly.

Best way is to have reference pegs offset from the middle of the formcast that way when you poor the concrete you can measure of them 😉

Your top plate on one wall is supposed to over lap the walls it butts up to.

Youre definately teaching me something. What not to do.

I thought sheeting runs perpendicular to studs? For strength. Except in post frame construction with girders running horizontal so sheeting runs vertically.

Genius lifting idea!

What kind of nails did you use for the siding? Beautiful work!

The palm held air hammer... 🤯

Cut it to size before going on the roof.

Kids do not do this. That glass could injure you severely

Geeze cant your wife help gosh

Umm isnt there supposed to be more tape around the window?

Oh my gosh... screw the board to the wall to sit your ledger board on.

For those that want to use that tape you do your horizontals first...then verticals on top of them...think about how water flows down the roof. It can get under the tape that way.

Aren't you supposed to put blocking between the rafters first? So the will not be bowed like that.

Dude go higher on your ladder...make your life easier.

Dude go higher on your ladder...make your life easier.

*THIS TOPIC* I find points of "failure" the best learning tools. Thanks for doing this video. New subscriber

strange that they don't sell the rebar ready cut & built for the foundations.

but your video is actually just like all the others on youtube - not stating the names of items or where to get them. for all we know those bits of metal are called "metal tying thingies" - which is useless when figuring out how to source them. 8:45 also you forgot to say the name of the other metal bits & that swirly tool

would an aerator help?

You could always call a concrete delivery service, tell them the dimensions of what you want to pour and they will figure out the amount of concrete you need. Also, currently if you were to order concrete it's about $200/ cubic yard plus delivery fees. Cheers man!

It was a real pleasure watching your timelapse series. Your attention to detail is impeccable. Thank you for making these. Much respect!

Rather than learning carpentry and JOINERY, Simpson must have good lobbyists . It’s the law 😢 How many structural engineers (nowadays) know proper joinery? (Wood) You would have to inspect buildings from the 1940’s and before to know what I’m saying. Simpson… pfffft… the dumbing down of a trade.

What do you charge the Metabo too? 200psi? Does it have an auto shut off/auto start? The nailer only needs about 75psi so charging to 200psi may be unnecessary. What do you do?